Paris Fashion Week is more than just beautiful clothes. The designs are interconnected to the beliefs of the companies. Fashion is a way of expression. Fashion week shows the fascination with style. Each designer tries to encapsulate many facets of style while branding their products to a targeted demographic.
Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela is a Parisian haute couture house founded on ideas of nonconformity and the subversion of norms. Maison Margiela made its comeback after years of absence from fashion week. The collection matches the overall branding of the company, especially the non-conformity aspect. The non-conformity is reflected through the intentional design choices curated by John Galliano. The clothing from Maison Margiela shown at Paris Fashion Week 2023 aligns with the philosophy. The designs featured unique silhouettes and deconstructed looks. The silhouettes were cut against lower hemlines, and sheer fabric was used for layering. Several shirts depicting Mickey Mouse were used in the show providing an interesting spin on haute couture despite the brand being primarily punk-chic.
Favorite look:
Chanel
Chanel aims to be “A wardrobe freed from constraints and superfluity, tweaked with masculine accents, created a visionary allure that has become timeless and yet wildly modern.” The looks at Paris Fashion Week reflected the timelessness of Chanel’s signature style. The silhouettes designed by Virginie Viard were timeless but still innovative. In several looks, the cuts were altered from the conventional style. Chanel used their signature fabric tweed in a number of looks. Outfits were accessorized with black and white bow chokers. The bows are more vintage Chanel while the choker is more modern. The scene for the fashion show was inspired by the animals in Coco Chanel’s apartment, a more subtle approach for the line to take. Coco Chanel, the founder, is still a relevant aspect of the brand as they frequently take inspiration from her ideas.
Favorite look:
Yves Saint Laurent
YSL staged 10 pieces total, the items taken from the Anthony Vaccarello's women's collection. YSL initially gained attention by placing women in trousers for all occasions. Creative Director Vaccarello furthers this approach in his fashion and design philosophy. Vaccarello wants men and women at the same level. The looks used neutral tones, black mainly used to highlight the silhouettes. The line has gained attention for the sharp tailoring and the celebrities who wore Vaccarello's designs. Jenna Ortega, the star of Netflix’s series “Wednesday,” wore a black hooded backless gown designed by Vaccarello.
Favorite look:
Emily Bode
Emily Bode has been deemed the down-to-earth luxury fashion brand. She launched her New York-based brand in 2016. Her designs have been spotted on Harry Styles, Jordan Peele and the Jonas Brothers. This year at Paris Fashion Week, Bode showed her debut women’s collection titled “The Crane Estate.” She took inspiration from her mother in designing this collection. Bode’s mother often wore her finest gowns to eat dinner alone. The collection differs from other designers who created looks that did not differ much in silhouette and color. Bode curated casual streetwear looks and sophisticated evening gowns. Needless to say, I enjoyed the so-called new “Emily in Paris.”
Favorite look:
Fendi
In the haute couture show, Fendi showcased 40 different looks. Since 1925 Fendi has been synonymous with excellent craftsmanship, creativity and timeless style. They are known for their specialized bags and their fur workshop, which has existed since their founding. The collection consisted of evening wear with unique twists such as a deconstructed blue gown with a lace silhouette under it. Several of the dresses were sparkly with sheer fabric (a recent trend). Fendi’s collection also used florals as one of its focal points. Towards the end of the show, after styling evening wear gowns, Fendi created a sunrise through the use of a pantsuit.
Favorite look:
Contact Rose Androwich at randrowich01@saintmarys.edu
